Every rug we ship leaves with a hanging kit in the tube: a walnut rod, two brackets, anchors for plaster and for drywall, and a sewn cotton sleeve already on the back. What follows is the walkthrough we give at the counter, with the three decisions that matter.
1. Rod or clips?
A rod through a sleeve spreads the weight along the whole top edge, which is what a flat-woven kilim wants. Clips and rings pull at points, and a point load is what leaves the wave you see in badly hung rugs after a year. Use the rod for anything wider than 100 cm; clips are fine for small silk pieces and anything under two kilos.
“Hang the weight, not the weave. The rod carries, the sleeve holds, the rug just hangs.”
2. Find the height
Eye level for the center of the rug is 145–150 cm from the floor. Above a sofa, leave 15–25 cm between the sofa back and the bottom fringe — closer reads as cramped, further reads as floating. The true-to-scale preview on every product page draws exactly this gap for you.
3. Which anchors
| Wall | Anchor in the kit | Holds up to |
|---|---|---|
| Plaster or brick | Grey nylon plug, 6 mm | 12 kg per bracket |
| Drywall | Self-drilling metal anchor | 8 kg per bracket |
| Rental, no drilling | Adhesive rail (sold separately) | 4 kg total |
- Mark both bracket points with the rod held level — a phone level app is enough.
- Drill, plug, screw the brackets, then slide the rod through the sleeve before lifting.
- Lift with a second person for anything over 150 cm wide. Set the rod in both brackets at once.
Step back. If the bottom edge is not level, the fix is in the brackets, not the rug: loosen one screw a quarter turn rather than tugging the fringe.
